Welcome to Charleston: A Visitor's Guide, Part 1

So you've decided to visit Charleston! That's GREAT! But do you know what to expect? Where to go? What is a deal? How the locals live and deal with every day occurrences? Here's a peek in to our little nook of the Lowcountry. And please don't hesitate to let me know if you need help/recommendations/etc.! 

Why should you visit Charleston?
If you've decided to visit this area just because you've heard some great stories about what we have to offer here, I'll help you find something (hopefully) that you find interesting! 

A lot of people visit because of our great beaches! If you want a little surfer town with a small-town feel, check out Folly Beach. If you want to hang out with the locals, check out Sullivan's Island. Or, if you want to people-watch or if you are with a large group, head to Isle of Palms! 

Another great thing about Charleston is our history here. We are, after all, the oldest city in the Great State of South Carolina. We were officially founded in 1670 when King Charles II was on the throne. We have a plethora of historic sites around here that date back to the colonial period. Charleston and its surrounding areas also played a large role in the American Revolution, and hosted George Washington! Francis Marion is also a well-known officer in these parts. And most obviously, the Civil War began here when cadets from The Citadel fired shots at The Star of the West and Fort Sumter. (Also, for some extra history, check out Old Santee Canal Park to see some great swamps AND the plantation home where the CSS David, aka "the little David" was built in secrecy under the plantation!)

Charleston is also the home of Darius Rucker, and during hurricane season, Jimmy Buffet frequents our beaches to catch a good surf. 

If none of that convinces you, the magazine Travel + Leisure named us the "World's Best City" in 2016! 

When to visit: 
Well, how's your hu-mid-i-tay tolerance? I'm definitely not kidding with that question. Do you want to get some Travel Insurance in case there's a hurricane? Our hurricane season is July - Thanksgiving. 

• Prices are generally on the higher end for lodging and attractions from Memorial Day-Labor Day and Holidays. If you're a beach go-er, I recommend mid-late August through September. Remember, the kids down here go back to school in the middle of August so there will be fewer locals. Ideally, the week before Labor Day and the week after are best. Of course, as long as there's no hurricane headed our way! 

Where to stay: 
Honestly, this totally depends on what you are looking for and if you want to walk everywhere, walk yourself down a boardwalk to the ocean, or if you want to explore this historic.  Do you want a beachfront hotel? Do you want bustling Downtown with a great view? Do you need a place to park your car overnight? 

To be honest, this would need an entire post to get into what we have here. I will say, though, that Middleton Plantation has an Inn, and you'd stay right on the grounds of the plantation. Or, if you want historic, beautiful, and downtown, check out Two Meeting Street Inn. If you want to feel like you're at the Ritz, check out The Francis Marion Hotel that's right on King Street and Calhoun. 

Or, hop on Air BnB for some great finds! Give some serious thought to renting a home on Lake Moultrie or Lake Marion. It's not oceanfront, but it is still pretty amazing, and only an hour away from the hustle and bustle of the city and the ocean. And the prices will be cheaper!


Up Front and Honest: Some of the Bad:
As with everywhere else, there is bound to be some downsides to a city/area. 

• First visit south of the Mason Dixon? The lower you get on the map, the more homeless people you'll see. If you think about it, it does make sense. They have to be able to survive outside year-round. Cities offer free hurricane shelters and transportation. 
• Not staying downtown and don't have a vehicle? You'll be on a tight schedule - public transportation isn't the greatest. But, we do have Uber! I've heard many positive reviews about using Uber here. Or budget (if you can) for a rental car. I do NOT recommend a taxi. Their prices are kind of ridiculous. If you do stay downtown, their public transportation is pretty regular, and a lot of what we have is walking-distance away. 
• If you're on a budget, consider staying just outside of Charleston. Not only are prices cheaper, but you'll be out of Charleston County. Charleston County has a higher tax on tourism-related things, such as hotels. 
• The drivers: everyone is either a part of the Daytona 500 or on a Sunday drive. Nothing in between. 

Get In The Mood: 

A list of some books to get you ready to visit Charleston

• The Lords of Discipline, by Pat Conroy
• North and South, by John Jakes
• Porgy, by DuBose Heyward

A List of Movies to Watch: 

• The Notebook (Allie's parent's vacation home is Boone Hall Plantation - also the plantation where Blake Lively and Ryan Reynolds got married. Also, the famous swamp boat ride is filmed at Cypress Gardens, which has recently re-opened after extensive work from hurricane damage)
• The Patriot (also partly filmed at Boone Hall and the College of Charleston)
• Not a movie, but the television series "Army Wives" was filmed here in Charleston. Take a short drive to visit the actual Hump Bar! 
• The Lords of Discipline (based off the novel)
• Forrest Gump 
• For a hard dose of reality, try and get through the movie 12 Years a Slave. Remember, Charleston was one of the main ports, and thousands of slaves passed through the old slave mart. 

When South Carolina Gets Snow...

We seemed to have brought down some Buffalo weather when we came down here for school! January 3rd, the Charleston area received the largest snowfall on record in quite a while - and it didn't melt by the next day.  We had snow for at least a week! We did NOT expect that!! Although we did have some fun. Here's some of our photos and some fun commentary. 

Our beloved space heater that Shawn brought in to the bedroom - a godsend at night, and a great nightlight as well! [And still used when it goes below 50 at night]

When the snow finally started to come down, Shawn was already at home - EVERYTHING closes when the forecast just mentions the word snow. Literally, everything. Walmart, Chick Fil A, gas stations, Food Lion, schools.

It was pretty entertaining though for us, only because we know how to deal with this kind of weather.  When it first started, like I said, Shawn was home, but I was at work. OOPS. They didn't close in time. The bridge we HAVE to get over to get home was shut down due to safety concerns. Shawn couldn't come and get me from work.  I ended up getting a ride from work to the corner, and walked to the bridge where there were police officers blocking vehicles.  I figured if traffic wasn't able to go across, maybe I could walk over it and have Shawn meet me on the other side. NOPE. I ended up having a police officer drive me all the way home because the roads were "too bad and it's bad out." Um. Okay. Perspective is everything down here. I'll go with it. Below is what it looked like when I got home from work. Thank you sheriff for the ride!

We put the slides in, just because we didn't want the weight of the snow on them, and its also easier to heat up the motorhome when the space is smaller!

Buffalo gal showing SC how it's done

The day after, before we got another round of MAYBE 2 inches? Sunny, pretty, and pristine. 

Shawn "shoveled" part of our front porch with a tote lid... we thought we could leave the snow shovels at home! 

Three days later, the state of emergency was still in effect, but the travel bans and restrictions were lifted. We decided to go out and see what everything was like, and Walmart was able to find a whopping 10 or so people to come in and staff the registers and restock shelves. Off we went.

Clearly, they need some help from states that regularly get snow.  DROPPING SALT DOES NOT MEAN YOU CANNOT PLOW, AND PLOWING DOES NOT MEAN ICE MELTS. And naturally, the parking lot to Walmart wasn't plowed. We didn't mind, we weren't expecting much based off what was being shown on the news. Below is the lovely, un-plowed parking lot. I think we were more irritated that people were putting down wood chips instead of kitty litter or salt down to "melt" the ice. 

We made it home, but realized someone took out our mailbox! We don't know if it happened the night before, or that day. Oh well, we had to put it back up! We don't know if there were any injuries, damages, etc. We can only imagine it was rough though - the mailbox was far on the other side of the ditch!

Fresh snow... it was so pretty! Nostalgic for home. 

But don't be fooled, we are definitely adjusted down here. It was roughly 75 degrees today, and sure, it was nice in the sun, but it was pretty darn cool with the breeze in the shade! But at least we are in flip flops, and headed to 80 degrees! Hooray! 

It's funny - we find ourselves cool and cold if it is under 75 outside, and we leave the big space heater on until we get warm, which we notice is around 79-82 degrees.

But we still dislike the humidity, unless we are on the beach. 

Here's to a relaxed weekend! ONE final exam left. 

Sightseeing Downtown

We've been having some pretty amazing weather! Can you believe we have been on our motorcycle EVERY SINGLE month this year, and last since we got it?!? How cool is that! I can't even begin to explain how thankful and happy I am that we have it.  It has allowed us to have an even better experience (in our opinion) when we go sightseeing. And we've definitely been using the warmer days to our advantage! The bike is easy to maneuver through the streets and in the parking garage.  We went on a 2 1/2 hour walk  around Downtown Charleston, and didn't see half of what is there! But we did find some really interesting nooks, crannies, alleys, and cobblestone streets that take you back to the early 1800's! It's quite the scene around Bay St. near Waterfront Park where all the carriage tours begin - horse and carriages everywhere! You definitely feel you've been transported in to another era within those few CITY blocks.  For easier reading, I've transcribed some of the text below certain photos. 

"On this site stood Shepheards Tavern, the birthplace of The Ancient And Accepted Scottish Rite of Freemasonry The Mother Supreme Council of the World May 31, 1801"

"George Washington was born in Virginia on February 22, 1732. As a boy, he excelled in field sports, and though his formal education was limited, he exhibited skill in mathematics and surveying. In the French and Indian War, though only 23, Colonel Washington commanded the Continental Army against superior forces. He devised the strategy of marching on the British in Virginia while the French fleet prevented an escape by sea.  Washington trapped General Cornwallis at Yorktown in 1781, capturing 7,000 troops and winning American Independence.  As a Virginia delegate to the Constitutional Convention in Philadelphia in 1787, Washington, serving as the assembly's president, provided the moral authority and quiet leadership needed to facilitate compromises.  Even at this time, he was known as a 'founding father.' Following ratification of the Constitution, he was unanimously elected the first president and inaugurated in New York on April 30, 1789. President Washington toured the southern states in 1791. His enormous personal popularity served as a significant force in binding the former 13 colonies in to a single nation.  On May 2, he landed at Prioleau's Wharf, one block south of the Exchange and Customs House.  While in Charleston, President Washington met with numerous officials, planners, and merchants, worshipped at St. Michaels's and St. Philip's churches, spoke to various gatherings of citizens and attended several balls held in his honor.  He also enjoyed the hospitality fo two fraternal groups of which he was a member - the Masons and the Society of Cincinnati.  In his diary, he made several complimentary notes about Charlestonians. Referring to a concert held at the Exchange, Washington remarked that "there were at least 400 ladies - the Number and appearance of which exceeded anything of the kind I had ever seen." Washington was unanimously reelected in1792.  Confronted with the competing philosophies of northern businessmen and southern planters, President Washington had a unique ability to recognize and promote the best of each.  Leaving office after two terms, he established the tradition of peaceful transition of power.  Retiring to Mount Vernon, he managed his plantation, entertained many visitors and remained a valued political and military advisor until his death on December 14, 1799.  Of his many achievements, he is most loved for his honesty.  George Washington's reputation for integrity is of such mythic proportions that school children continue to be taught that even as a boy, George Washington could not tell a lie." 

On the back of the statue, not pictured, "In 1881, on the 100 year anniversary of General Cornwallis' surrender to George Washington at Yorktown, the city of Charleston renamed its first public park Washington Square in honor of George Washington.  More than 100 years later and at the request of Charleston Mayor Joseph P. Riley Jr., General William C. Westmoreland chaired a committee of fellow Charlestonians to raise the funds to erect a statue of George Washington in the park that bears his name."

"Enslaved Africans were usually sold at wharves along the city harbor. Some Africans were sold near the Exchange, but most people sold here were born in the U.S., making this a key site in the domestic slave trade.  In 1856, the city banned auctions of slaves and other goods from the Exchange.  Indoor sales grew elsewhere, and Ryan's Mart, a complex of buildings between Queen and Chalmers streets, became the main downtown auction site."

The other side of the sign notes that Charleston was one of the largest slave trading cities in the United States in the 1800's, and began selling slaves in the 1770's. 

"Historic Hotels of America, National Trust for Historic Preservation"

"King's Courtyard Inn c. 1853"

"King's Courtyard Inn c. 1853 is protected by a conservation easement donated to Historic Charleston Foundation 1985"

Photo taken on the steps of the Exchange building

Beauregard

"P.G.T. Beauregard/ General / Commanding Confederate forces / Charleston South Carolina / Held this city and harbor / inviolate / against combined attacks / by land and water / 1863 1864 1864 / This monument is erected / in his honour / by a grateful people. / A.D. 1904"

This isn't a church! It's just a building. 

"Henry Timrod Born in Charleston, S.C. December 8, 1829 Died at Columbia, S.C. October 7, 1867" 

Below are two photos of the house.  The porch has a direct view in to Washington Square, where the statue of George Washington, Henry Timrod, and Beauregard's memorial stand. 

Getting Settled

Howdy!! We are getting used to the South Carolina life, and loving it! (Except when it rains and we are stuck inside.)  Shawn got a job down here, I'm still waiting to hear back about a graduate assistantship (fingers crossed!) and life is just so... happy, enjoyable, loving, fun, and interesting! 

In our little town, we are less than FIVE whole miles from (in no order): Food Lion (think cross between Save A Lot and Tops), Bi-Lo (more upscale grocer, think Wegmans), Family Dollar, Dollar Tree, Dollar General(I'm sensing a pattern here...), Walmart, Chick-fil-A (Shawn's new favorite place for chicken), Hardee's, Sonic, Auto Zone, Big Lots, Verizon, Waffle House, Walgreens, the DMV, Wells Fargo, Piggly Wiggly, and Heads Up Hair Design (which was the best $25 hair cut I've ever had in my whole entire life - super thorough, helpful, and well trained!). And so much more.  I couldn't even list everything in an entire post - there is A LOT. 

We've gone to my Colleges (it's a joint degree between two) and I fell in love with the Campus an library at the Citadel. I've started to dip my foot in to the world of podcasts, and I'm still unsure about if I like them or not.  We went to pick up my seven novels for one of my courses (18th Century Novel), we drove around Charleston and loved seeing the different architecture, we've spent an afternoon at Folly Beach, we had one dinner date in Murrell's Inlet and stopped at a few places in Pawley's Island, we've read books, we've adapted to our hookups, we've seen a lot of wildlife and dragonflies, it goes on.  We are really blessed and thankful to be living in such a place that has so much to offer, explore, and experience.  

But most importantly, we've begun to plan for the future.  Our hopes, dreams, where we want to be, where we want to go, vacations we want to have before we die, where/how we should live within the next few years, and most importantly, we've set up a game-plan as to how we want to achieve our immediate and semi-long term goals (within 5 years).  And we made a small little poster that's hanging on the wall in the hallway to remind us every day to try and get a little closer to those goals. 

And of course, Velvet found a new place to hang when we forgot to close the cabinets :)

We checked out Lake Moultrie, which is less than a mile away from us, but this photo was near the public boat ramp, about 14 miles from us. 

Shawn has been working on our lawn? Area? What do we call it? Here he's working on the back (secondary) driveway.  He also gets on a Ford tractor like this one and bush hogs it (big lawn mower).

These photos were from our trip to Pawley's Island.

We went to Capt. Dave's Dockside for dinner and Shawn tried some more hush puppies.  He wasn't a big fan of these, because he tried some down in Hilton Head at Hudson's, and those had onion in them, which are much more to his taste. These were too sweet. 

View from our dinner table! Right on the inlet, and people can go on boat rides, walk around, shop a little, or even dock right up to the side and come in to eat! 

It may be fake, but it's still pretty huge!

Lots of morning time snuggles

And the puppy has figured out he can sit on the couch and see what's on the dinette table and smell Mommy's dinner even better

This picture is Folly Beach, about two hours before the peak of high tide

The beach wouldn't be complete without my favorite bird: the pelican! There were so many! 

Shawn got to see pelicans hunting for food, and I caught it on video! Pay attention to the pelican on the right :) 

We Made It!

We are HOME! We found a place! We are less than an hour away from Charleston, and just over an hour away from one of my favorite places in the world: Pawley's Island! We still have to get things set up "permanently" because now we won't be moving from campground to campground.  YAY! 

In our free time that we (might) have over the next two years, there is SO much to check out! 

Right away, we are closest to Francis Marion National Forest and Lake Moultrie.

In Pawley's Island, I already know my faves.  I love going to the beach, but this time we'll have to find public access instead of the hotel access! There's also the Hammock Shops that are always fun to check out, especially if the lady that weaves baskets is there.  Be sure to stop in and watch some great guys make the hammocks, and if you go right when they open, you might leave with a free goodie! Lunch or Dinner? Quigley's Pint and Plate, Perrone's, Bistro 217, Dave's Dockside, Drunken Jakes, and for frozen take-out (and simply THE best southern cooking), Get Carried Away.  And for that after dinner final touch, check out Bourbon and Burnz, right on Ocean Highway (17).  They are a full service bar with over 200 brands of whiskey, and also is a cigar lounge.  They have a big selection, you won't be disappointed! 

Other interesting places:
The city of Charleston itself, Meeting Street Inn Bed & Breakfast, Magnolia Plantation and Gardens, Middleton Place, Fort Sumter, the Battery, Aiken-Rhett House Museum, McLeod Plantation, Sullivan's Island, Drayton Hall, Boone Hall Plantation, South Carolina Aquarium, Columbia Zoo, and so much more.  

HOORAY! On to a celebratory drink, making dinner, and more settling in.